Tel Aviv - the city that never sleeps.

I felt a rush of adrenaline, when the plane landed, not just out of sheer excitement, but mainly i must confess because i was a bit scared. A friend who had recently been there had thrown me a bomb of negativity about Israel: "Don't go alone, it's expensive, men look at you in a weird way, it's ridiculously expensive, don't go alone. You are crazy."


The fact is I did not give a fuck. I was going. Not because I had always wanted to go to Israel, as this was not true. I never had any particular interest. However there was something tremendously exotic about Israel, that was now stuck in my imaginary, and I felt compelled to go, specially since I would be there for Easter - a religious date.


Middle East, here I come. Shalom.


I had two weeks ahead in Israel. And I was not planning too much ahead except the hostel upon arrival.

Just the smell of Tel Aviv, reminded me of home. Flowers and flowers. An amazing smell.

I stayed at the Florentine, a hostel full of pretentious hippies in their twenties. Too cool for school most of them. I hated it it, although the terrace was pretty amazing. The rooms had white lights!! white lights!!! The area was a bit dodgy - a bit Dalstonian and Shoreditch type of area. Graffitis, cool bars, and scary dogs. The bars around were too shabby cool. And repeated this hostel! Twice. Because I couldn't find anything better. There is no list of hostel for thirty year olds. What a mistake.

Tel Aviv is a big city, but it's well distributed and has all the condiments that make a city great, rather than just good: good weather, art, fashion, history, beaches, and what usually makes me happy and what for me is the great line that makes a city either amazing or shit -  Cafes/ restaurants and bars open at all times. This splits cities in either spontaneous/fun vs. those that are predictable/planned dull and boring.

All in all, I ended up staying 5 days, which was completely unnecessary. I wanted to do a bit of beach, but it was not great in the end. It rained non-stop for three days. I was a bit unlucky I must say. And as I said before I hated the hostel I was staying in, but was too lazy to move to another one because of the rain. All in all...if you are travelling and you get stuck like I did I have not much advise. Except, don't travel alone next time. Or don't be lazy, and change hostels asap.


Unmissable
Tel Aviv museum - this is the best museum I've ever been in my life. Loads of contemporary art, and impressionism. Go! I spent 4 hours but it was worth it.

Neighbourhoods worth visiting


Jaffa: Old Jaffa, has is a must on any visit, as it's got it all - history, markets and old style architecture with a very artsy vibe. Plus, galleries and jewellery shops. The old city is beautiful. There is a great flea market outside where they sell from old furniture, vintage clothes, to random items. You can get cool stuff, and bargain endlessly. There is also plenty of good food around. Try the Shewarma and hummus if its your first day in a random shop and it will probably be good.


Recommended by locals:

• A restaurant: The Old Man By the Sea' - it's run by Israeli Arabs...it's right on the beach...and it's like the real middle eastern dining experience where they bring out a giant platter of salads and breads just as part of the service - always packed and good food - and also I like that it's Israeli Jews and Arabs all together - it's a real mix.
• Jaffa Port area: This place is good for clubbing / dancing / eating / and strolling too - it's a great area...go there one night for sure! The Container is famous venue for live music/eating/drinking at night - right on the water front.
• Cafe: A friend recommended Pua, in the market area - it's pretty well-known and popular so ask around.
• Breakfast: Traditional Israeli breakfast! eggs, salad, cheeses, etc - also shakshuka is a traditional dish (fried eggs with spicey red salad mixed together) -- there is a famous place to eat shakshuka called 'Dr Shaksuhuka' under one of the old arches in Jaffa by the way - cool place to go too.


Neve Tzedek: People say this is one of the most expensive gentrified areas in town. Full of low, old shabby chic houses, and a hip vibe, plus during the day lots of trendy boutique shops, and at cool cafes and restaurants. I really liked it. Cycle around it and enjoy the little cafes and restaurants.

Rothschild Boulevard:Probably the most famous street in Tel Aviv and what is defined as the center of the city. Lots of bauhaus architecture. Lots of cafe/bar huts along the boulevard that are open late, where you can sit and chat and watch the world go by.


Recommended:

• Rothschild 12 - Cool bar ( I actually was there and loved it!) on Rothschild boulevard. Often has live music there too in the evenings. Nice vibe. I hear it is also good for brunch too however went to another place which I loved for brunch.
• Benedict - I really enjoyed this 24 hour open place. The brunch was great.



Other recommended places around the city

• Rooftop bar/cafe: The Little Prince: People had recommended this roof top bar/cafe/hangout on Nahalat Binyamin, however on a random part, and the entrance is hard to find, but ask people nearby and they will show you, it's like you are entering an apartment building and you go upstairs. It's meant to be very cool bohemian vibe, with good salads and hot-baked bread, drinks etc, however I didn't find it special. When I got there there were no people, and I'd cycled all the way there in the rain! And it was midday. Maybe it's a place to go at night time.
• Cafe/Breakfast: Landwer's coffee: A very sunny cafe with great food and a breakfast/brunch with full eggs and pancakes. Prices vary from 50 shekels for a breakfast or salad to a bit more on mains. Go there after the Museum.
• Restaurant: Right next to the Landwer's Cafe is the Brasserie. A girl I met at Landwers recommended it for food. Goocha - near Gordon and Dizenghof was also recommended.



Airport transport: 
Landed at 2 am, so took a taxi as did not know if i would be safe. But I did, i felt super safe. I have never felt as safe in a city (ok, a bit of an exaggeration, however felt much safer than Buenos Aires). Obviously there are dodgy parts, but in general a 3 stars in safety. So my recommendation would be to get a Sherut ( a shared taxi) to/from the airport next time. Ask where they can drop you off, and if it's close to your hotel, then you've saved yourself some money.


Taxis
Don't take taxis in the street. Bastards! They will all rip you off. It's okay from the airport but otherwise they are a rip off.

Jerusalem - Part I

From Tel Aviv I went to the central station to get my Sherut (shared taxi that are yello minibuses) to Jerusalem. It only cost 5 shekel mire than the bus, and it left as soon as it was full.

So in 1 hour I was there. It was Good Friday, so a special day to be in Jerusalem. The day Jesus Christ had been killed at that very site. Holy Jesus! (this last bit is a bit of a bad joke).

Accommodation had been an important side of the stress that this trip caused me. It's expensive and shitty. And I wanted a hostel because I wanted to meet people so as not to be alone. "Men there are scary. Especially on the muslim side" had said a friend. "Stay close to Jaffa Gate". "Where??? Jaffa what?" - this is my typical reaction prior going to places...Clueless. Can't figure out what the place will be like, what I will feel, so I am searching and searching with out any idea. Once I arrive, it all makes sense.

Single rooms are scarse in hostels in the Old City, and expensive, and reviews were awful. Some below 50% ratings with no windows and shared bathroom. And me being me, i refused to pay £50 for a room with no window.

The most recommended hostel in hostelworld.com was the Abraham Hostel. It looked massive and impersonal, and young. And it was 20 minutes walk away from Jaffa Gate. So I was reluctant considering I had been warned to be close to it. The options at the old town looked bad, terrible reviews. but I had to settle for one. So I chose the New Swedish Hostel. And no, if you wonder, there is nothing swedish about it. One bedroom. A 15 bedroom dorm. One of the strangest places I've slept overall, but location was amazing. Right on David St, next to Jaffa Gate, on the christian quarter. It was an odd experience being there. But I kind of enjoyed it, and because I stayed 3 nights I could see people arriving and leaving and felt a bit part of the place. Interesting.

The good thing about travelling in Jerusalem is that the amount of strange and different people you will meet - weird religions, most of them studying international relations, and everyone from different backgrounds, makes it a challenging, but of course, exotic destination.

I eventually did stay in the Abraham Hostel in it's impersonal dorms, and the reason I did this was because I eventually saw there was no danger whatsoever to walk from there to Jaffa Gate, and because I wanted to explore that side of Jerusalem. I also booked some of their tours, which were good price, and gave me some piece of mind by being prearranged. I did the Jordan 3 day tour, and the Dead Sea and Masada tour. Really great tours overall.

Stuck in Jerusalem during Passover

I don't know why I stressed out so much during this trip. As if I had never travelled alone. I guess it was mainly because I wasn't in my twenties anymore and I was starting to dislike being by myself and meeting people in their twenties or only couples in their thirties.

And also maybe, because travelling by myself in a middle eastern country had a bit of an edge. An edgy scary side.

My main objective, given that I was raised catholic, was to have a bit of an introspect spiritual journey.  However, I wasn't feeling spiritual at all. I was feeling as if I had a moon style cover over whatever sense I could make of life. I was blurred to any amaziness the world had to offer. I could only see shadows... (I might be a tad exaggerated about this).

The thing is Jerusalem was amazing, but during Easter, and after a few days it got too much. And then Passover came, and everything was empty, like in a ghost town, or on one of those cities that get emptied out before something really bad is about to happen. Passover was happening. No one could leave their houses, every shop was closed...Nothing, except a bit of the Muslim side, and the Catholic, all inside the closed gates of the city. Being in an empty city when you are travelling by yourself is not the best idea.

So I walked around and met people, or tried to smile at the jews, even though they would refuse any sort of contact. The only smile I got from a jew was from one I actually helped sort what appeared to be an existentialist crisis - turn the fridge on. Press the button. Turn it on.  I had no clue that they were left to nothingness during passover and at the mercy of other religions because doing anything - taking a lift even, was sacrilegious. So the many 'thank yous' I received that day, plus the apple she gave me made me feel useful and good. That was the highlight of my religious interactions. I'd done a good deed. During Easter.

There was also that amazing Easter 6 am mass I had at Ecco Huomo Monastery at the rooftop. That was sooo amazing. Seeing the sunrise, singing songs all together in both French and English, and the food they gave us afterwards - the mass brunch. I almost cried because I felt so happy.

And then the weird Easter mass at the Church of the Holy Sepulcre, and the fortunate encounter with an argentinean franciscan priest that told me how this was his first time there and he was freaking out, because he couldn't understand how all the different sorts of christianity could co exist.

And all the other places that I thought were worth it: the Austrian Hospice and it's amazing views and the cake, the crying Western Wall, and the Dormitory Abbey at Mount Zion where there is an great church where I felt Mary's presence, right at the basement of the church, where here sleeping statue lays.

But then I got stuck, stuck in there. And it all was too much. For me to take on my own.